This week we’ve been tucked up in the far north — 103 miles into the interior of BC — exploring the long, narrow stretch of water that makes up the Portland Canal and Pearse Canal. The Portland Canal is also the dividing line between Canada and the U.S., and at the very end sit the little border towns of Stewart, BC and Hyder, Alaska.
We spent three nights there and loved every minute of it. You can freely cross into the U.S. to visit Hyder, which is called America’s Friendliest Ghost Town. It’s a funny mix — quiet, a bit rough around the edges, but full of character and good people. There’s even a pub, The Glacier Inn, where we got Hyderized.
For anyone who doesn’t know, being Hyderized means taking a shot of Everclear (95% alcohol). You don’t sip it — you toss it back in one go. If you keep it down, you get a certificate. If you don’t… well, the locals will never let you forget it.
There’s also a gift shop there that sells the best fudge ever. But once you head back across the border into Canada, things change fast. Stewart was basically shut down for the season — no restaurants, no shops, everyone packing up for winter. It unofficially closed September 30, and the townfolk were either heading south or settling in to hibernate.
The weirdest part?
When you cross back into Canada, you have to go through customs and show your passports — even though the pub and the gift shop are literally right there in sight of the agents. They ask where you’ve been, and the answer’s always the same: “The bar and the fudge shop.” There’s nowhere else to go.
We couldn’t resist one more adventure before leaving — so we took Ruby and Roxy up the Salmon Glacier Road. What a ride. Narrow, steep, and absolutely spectacular. Totally worth the white knuckles.
After an amazing time up the canals, we made our way back down and stopped to find the last two U.S. storehouses, built in 1867 during the border dispute. We found both — still standing after more than 150 years.
Now we’re docked in Ketchikan — Bar Harbor, Dock 9, right at the end — if you’re nearby, come say hi! Or drop us a note at crew@onboardtangaroa.com.
See you crew members on Wednesday for Wheelhouse Weekly, and to all our Canadian crew — Happy Thanksgiving!
Everyone else, we’ll see you this weekend for the next adventure.
Blaine and Janis
